Thursday, June 7, 2012

Mastery of Design: Mary of Modena's Diadem, 1685

Mary of Modena's Diadem
Sir John Viner, 1685
Crown Copyright
The Royal Collection
Image Courtesy of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II



The Royal Goldsmith during the reign of Queen Mary II and King William III, Sir Robert Viner, 1st Baronet (1631-88) created this diadem in 1685 of gold, silver, quartz crystal, pearls, velvet and ermine.

The diadem was purchased by Queen Mary of Modena, Consort of James II, King of Great Britain (1658-1718). It is comprised of a gold circlet which comes to a peak at the front. A border of pearls adorns the piece above foliated scrolls of rose-cut quartz crystal clusters and rosettes which are mounted with gold wire. A purple velvet cap and ermine band are fitted into the circlet.

The quartz crystals that we see today were installed as replacements to the diamonds which were originally rented from a supplier for the coronation of 1685. Queen Mary II wore this, her step-mother's diadem, at the procession leading up to her own coronation on April 11, 1689, and it was worn again by Queen Anne in 1702. Some believe that it was also worn by George II's consort, Queen Caroline, in 1727, but this can’t be confirmed. The piece fell into disuse by the reign of King George III, and the quartz has remained ever since. Previously, for important occasions, diamonds were again hired and worn in place of the quartz.

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